Entebbe – The Kafuro & Liss Blog

Uganda 2025 Day 12: Ups and downs

After an early breakfast, we decided that we would go out present shopping as we all had gifts we wanted to pick up for our nearest and dearest. Our first stop was Victoria Mall in Entebbe where I picked up some special Ugandan chocolate for Heather, my better half, and some biscuits for my new class. I was also looking to buy some Nile Special to take home, but (and this I can barely believe) they didn’t have any. We stopped for a drink at a restaurant called CJ Javas where I had a fresh lemonade, but with ginger juice and a cane sugar syrup which I could add to it. Needless to say, it was delicious.

Our next stop was along the road where there was a block of 10 craft stalls. In Uganda, you are not allowed to visit one, you are harassed until you visit all ten! I knew what to expect so I took it all in good humour. I managed to pick up some patchwork giraffes for Heather and a present for my great – nephew which I was very pleased with.

From there, we moved to a market closer to the airport where they had a supermarket which sold Nile Special. However, the process of buying the Nile was not straightforward. The lady on the till said that I had to return four empty bottles before I could purchase four more. When I explained that I hadn’t previously bought any bottles from the supermarket, she called her manager. After a lot of pleading on my behalf, she eventually agreed to sell me the bottles and I paid a deposit on the empties. All I had to do was to get the bottles back to the UK unbroken.

Anthony Mukama was in the area as he and his sons were attending a scout jamboree to celebrate 110 years of scouting in Uganda. We decided to go to Entebbe Zoo as Henry, Anthony’s younger son had not been there before.

To be brutally honest, on this occasion the zoo was not an experience that I enjoyed very much. For a start, it was packed and it appeared to be a place where people came to be seen with many people showing little interest in the wildlife. Secondly, having been in the bush up close to many of the same animals, it seemed very controlled and sanitised. Thirdly, in the chimpanzee area, many of the people were shouting, throwing bananas at the chimps and stressing them – the animals weren’t allowed any dignity. Steve and I discussed this – he felt the same as me about the dignity, but also argued that many Ugandans can’t afford to go and see the animals in the wild. Likewise, if people want to come to the zoo to be seen – that’s up to them. The money a zoo makes helps conservation across Uganda.

The final reason, I was not enjoying the experience so much was that I was beginning to feel unwell. A germ was beginning to affect my system and that’s all I will say!

An unexpected positive from the zoo visit was we met a lady called Stella who specialised in recycling plastic bottles to make bags, holders, flags – even Christmas trees. We made sure that Anthony took her number to see if she would be available to come out to Kafuro in the future and pass on her skills.

Anthony and his sons really enjoyed the zoo which was the most important thing, and we took them for a drink in Entebbe before they headed off again.

We were meeting Robert Ntegeka at CJ Javas for dinner as he had arrived back from Murchison Falls. Again, it was nice to catch up with him for the second time in a week. I’d only had fish once on this trip so I opted for a tilapia burger. Although I didn’t feel great, it was delicious.

After saying ‘goodbye’ to Robert we headed back to Silverback to pack for the final time. I knew I must be feeling unwell because I turned down Steve’s offer of a final Nile Special. Tomorrow is another early start as we need to be at the airport at 07.10 ready to fly home.

Victoria Mall
A spider at the zoo
Stella with a plastic cap flag
Tilapia burger…Yom!

Uganda 2025 Day 11: Giraffes

We were up at 05.00 to make sure we were ready for the game drive at 06.00. Sarah told us she would meet us at Red Chilli and she was there right on time. Watching Sarah at close quarters was inspirational, she knew exactly where to go to find animals and had a network of rangers calling in on her mobile with the latest sightings. Within five minutes, we had seen a hyena and within 20 minutes we found a pride of lions – two lionesses and their cubs. We had about 15 minutes viewing them before anyone else showed up and by that time the sun was rising and the lions were moving into the long grass out of sight of the cameras.

The big target was to see giraffes which are plentiful at Murchison. I was more than happy to view them at a distance, but Sarah was determined to do much better than that. We turned up one track and before too long we had a tower (the collective noun) of giraffes right in front of us. It was amazing to watch these strange, unworldly but beautiful creatures stare back at us before moving on their way.

On our way back from the drive we saw the most Ugandan kob I think I have ever seen as well as vultures and all sorts of other different birds as well as a giraffe crossing the road.

We were all incredibly grateful to Sarah for how hard she worked on our behalf to give us such an incredible experience. She was awesome and it was nice to make another new friend.

It was now time to head back to Entebbe on the final leg of our journey. We had packed and loaded the land cruiser before we left for the game drive, so after breakfast (the awesome Spanish omelette and sausage rolex again)we began the long drive south.

Stu had done all the driving in the park, so I took over for the first leg of the journey. Again, the driving conditions were ideal so I was able to make very good time. The roads were almost completely clear for the first three hours so i was really able to put my foot down. We stopped briefly at a garage to pick up some snacks then on the outskirts of Kampala so Torin could have his first muchomo (grilled meat skewered on a stick). At this point Steve took over the driving and at this point things started to go wrong (this is not the first time this has happened – read some previous trip reports for plenty of evidence). Almost immediately the traffic got heavier and then, when we were trying to reach the Kampala – Entebbe Expressway, we reached a full scale traffic jam. It took about 90 minutes to negotiate this and only 25 minutes afterwards to negotiate the last 36km.

We checked in again at the Silverback guesthouse where we had stayed on our first night. However, this time Steve and I had a twin room. Having stayed in Entebbe several times, I know it fairly well so I recommended we go to Goretti’s, a pizzeria on the shore of Lake Victoria. On previous visits I’d had some awesome pizzas there. We arrived as a Ugandan traditional drumming troupe began the first of two sets so conversation was difficult. The pizzas were fine, but didn’t reach the heights they di on my last visit to Goretti’s. Returning to Silverback, we have (at the moment) a quiet last day planned before flying home on Sunday.

Stu the ranger’s visit to Uganda – Day 2

Stu’s adventures continue with Another quiet day in Entebbe and still in green valley guest house in the parrot room. Another lovely breakfast of Spanish omelette, sausage, Pineapple, banana, and toast. The bread here is sweeter than the UK and I like to plonk my omelette on top. To accompany it there is real fruit juice (if you leave it for a minute it separates into juice and water) or tea from a flask. The tea comes with tea spice – something I’ve not seen in the UK.

The shower and the plumbing are all made in England?! Seems like an overly expensive place to get it and the water is, true to form, cold even after switching the hot water on. It’s doing something though because the electricity tingles through my arm when I touch the tap.

After breakfast I got word that the team coming out were stuck in Dubai. By fog on runway. FOG! DUBAI? Didn’t expect that and trumps the vehicle troubles I’ve had on previous trips! They will be joining me tomorrow afternoon so Ronnie and I nip out to reorganise the programme. I meet our vehicle for the week. Will be christening her straight after we’ve decided on a name. Then on to faze3 for my first tilapia (fish) of the trip. It’s a meaty fish, grilled and served whole which is great when you like to play with your food.

In the afternoon Ronnie dropped me in Entebbe and I wondered round. Resisting things like the gangnam toys…

So no conservation yet. Chimp island to report on and the epic journey the other team members had from Dubai in tomorrow’s report.

The latest in a series of Toyota Hiaces used by the Twinning Project

Stu the ranger’s visit to Uganda: Day One

Today saw the beginning of another ranger trip to Uganda led by Mr Stanley’s friend, Stu. He accompanied Mr Stanley on both his visits to Uganda in previous years. Stu will be visiting Kafuro on his trip and will dropping off all of the book that children from Liss Junior School so generously donated. Mr Stanley will be updating the blog on Stu’s behalf and we hope to arrange some direct contact while Stu is in Uganda. Now read on and enjoy…..

This adventure starts off with SSE volunteer conservation at QE country park. A few of their number weren’t ready for Steve Peach and his gift for talking endlessly about Uganda. Thus another set of willing lambs prepare for the big push.

They have been fantastic in securing donations and resources (in the process costing me untold hundreds in back pain correction) but more importantly they have the right frame of mind, quickly engaging in friendship with the teachers and rangers able to communicate across the thousands of miles.

With all things Ugandan there is a ‘programme’. It differs from a plan or schedule in one important respect, no African expects it to happen as it is set out. It took us a while on my first trip to realise you can only resist the natural rhythm so much. And thus the night before my flight, round 10pm, after coming last in the pub quiz, you find me embracing my inner African with all my packing still ahead of me. A huge pile of laptops, books, clothes, first aid, school supply, gifts, football kits and more and only two hold suitcases (23kg each) I loaded them up to the max and then set about filling my hand luggage and laptop case to capacity too and when were over limit then adding the coat with the largest pockets. Most of my clothes I wore instead of packing. There is always a way. I think I have approx. 75kg.

The direct BA flight takes 8 hours and terminal 5 and it’s staff were great even if their scales read my luggage as 25kg a bag forcing me to find homes for more of it on my person.

Flew over the alps, very clear and amazing and the Sahara desert. My neighbour, Tracy Adams, turned out to be be taking herself around the national parks. Very brave especially for an accountant but she had lived in Africa on an FSO placement. Somewhere over Africa the body clock tried to switch forwards (at this time of the year Uganda is 3 hours ahead) and I felt drained. Not helped by my TV – only able to show Gravity on loop or the moving map but with the picture quality you get when you tune to terrestial without an aerial.

Out of the airport and greeted by the heat first then a equally warm welcome from Ronnie, our guy at Rangeland safaris. He has been a teacher and a guide in his time and will be driving us to Queen. He has a boy, 10 yrs, I must find out if he supports QPR, like his father. Evidence suggests team support runs in families here.

The rich smell is the most evocative and immediate sense. Waking me up again as we drive along with the windows down at half midnight to my guest house. Tired, we plan a programme for today of breakfast at 8, Ronnie to try booking the chimp island boat ride and contact me at 9. Can’t will myself to sleep, so much noise, just have to let your senses adjust for a while until your body is ready to shut down. No need for sheets in this heat.

This morning woke up 7am Ugandan time with a heavy head. Barely managed to make breakfast at 8am. Pineapple, sausage, toast and Spanish omelette. It’s 11 am now, no Ronnie – I’m smiling and embracing the meaning of ‘programme’. Oh I’ve stolen some wifi and found out I’ve missed the boat. Into town for money and sim card then.